Trapezoid Top

You know those off-kilter tee shirts that pop up every so often in Burdastyle magazine? Well, they finally sucked me into making one of them. This is top #107 from the February, 2018 issue.

And here's the line drawing below.

BS 02-2018-#107

It really is as wonky as it looks. But I think I kind of like it.

Side view showing the long side

There are only two pattern pieces - front and back. The neckline is just turned and stitched, so there isn't even a neckband to put on. In fact, the sewing part of the project was a total walk in the park.

The pattern tracing, on the other hand, was a challenge. Maybe my eyes are getting worse in my old age, but I had a heck of a time following the lines on this one. True, the pattern pieces are large and oddly shaped. In fact, they're so large Burda has laid each piece out in two chunks that you need to tape together at the end.

But once the tracing and cutting are done, you just zip up four seams and Bob's your uncle.

Side view showing the short side

I used a light weight french terry in a color called "charcoal" that I found at Hart's. I originally bought it planning to make a tee shirt for The Man, but once I got it home all I could see was this trapezoid top. Sorry, honey. Yet he still volunteered to do my photo shoot this morning. He's a sweetie.

The style is a bit edgy for this beach town gal, but I feel I should stretch myself every now and again. The terry makes it feel like a cozy sweatshirt, but maybe with more of an urban vibe. During my test-wearing session it felt comfortable and pretty much stayed put, once I fluffed my neckline into shape.

I think I'll get some use out of it! And I did go back to get another piece of this fabric for The Man.

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

Button Front Fly

I made these pants partly for scientific purposes. I've never sewn a button front fly before. Actually, I haven't worn a button front fly since my old shrink-to-fit Levi 501s in high school. This pattern is in the December, 2017 issue of Burdastyle. Even though you can't see the buttons in either of the photos of the pants, I was intrigued.

Front view

I had my doubts while sewing, and I had to stretch my visual thinking to figure out how to put that danged fly together. Now that they're done, I like 'em!

Here's the line drawing from Burdastyle. They show them with a cropped leg and a flounce at the ankle.

Burdastyle December, 2017 #101

As a woman in her 60s, I feel I need to be sparing in my use of flounce so I decided to omit those. And as a short person, I think cropped trousers make me look even stumpier, so I lengthened them 6 inches. I'm 5'3";  if you're a long-legged gal and you want ankle length you may want to tack on even more.

Side view

I planned to add pockets, which Burdastyle doesn't include. I dug up an inseam pocket from another pants pattern; cut them out and everything. Then I decided I couldn't be bothered after all. Next time, I'll go for it though.

The fabric is a lightweight railroad strip denim that I got at Cool Cottons in Portland a couple years ago. Once I got it home the fabric seemed a little too heavy for a top and a little too light for a pair of pants. I think it works OK for this style though.

I'm actually surprised how well I like these pants. I test wore them to a party yesterday and they felt very comfortable. Add some pockets and this could become a go-to pants pattern for me.

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

Happy echeveria

And here's a happy, somewhat seasonally colored echeveria in my planter on the porch. Succulents seem to really like this planter. This guy looks like he's going to bust out the sides and take over the yard.

Summer Shorts, Take Two

Now this is what I'm talking about! Comfortable shorts with great pockets that sit at my waist.

These are Shorts 107A from the July, 2016 issue of Burdastyle. They come in culotte length too, if that's your jam. Look at those pockets! Cute, no? The tops kind of curve up over the waistband and turn into belt loops.

BS 07-2016-107A

I made them out of some lightweight denim from Hart's. I'd recommend a pretty lightweight fabric for these; by the time you have those wide belt loops over the interfaced waistband, you have quite a few layers of fabric to sew through. In fact, I ended up not catching the belt loops in the waistband seam on the inside. I just hand-stitched them down, to reduce some of that bulk.

Side view

I decided not to include the cuffs (or turn ups, as Burda calls them). Cuffs on shorts always seem a bit fiddly to me. They're not comfortable to sit on, and they keep folding and unfolding themselves in awkward ways. I also left off the faux pocket flap on the back. I probably would have left it off even if it was a real pocket, because who needs back pockets when you have those nifty front pockets?

Back view

You can't see it in this photo, but there's a belt loop in the back which is wide enough to balance out the front belt loops. You can kind of pick it out in the line drawing up above there. Even though there are only three belt loops, they're wide enough so that your belt stays put.

This is my new favorite shorts pattern! In fact, I like them so much I'm thinking I might lengthen them into regular pants.

Here I am, test driving them on the Back Bay Loop at Newport Beach. In my book, shorts that are comfortable enough for a longish bike ride are winner.

The Boy gave them the thumbs up!

My pattern review is on SewingPatternReview.com here.

Summer Shorts

I seem to be on a shorts-making kick.

These are shorts #110 from the June, 2016 issue of Burdastyle.

Burdastyle 06-2016-#110

The pattern includes a cute tie-waist feature, which I omitted. I don't usually wear my tops tucked in when it's shorts weather and I thought the tie would poke out below my shirt, spoiling my smooth lines.

Omitting those tie bands turned out to be more complicated than I had blithely assumed. There's a lot of folding and pleating that goes on with that waistband. I ended up moving the zip to the back, just so I wouldn't have to figure out which markings were all about the integrated ties and which were about the fly.

I'm sure I made those changes more complicated than they needed to be. I ended up having to recut the waistband to get it to fit the top of the shorts. Twice. And then I took the waist in about 1.5 inches after the shorts were finished; otherwise I could pull them off without unzipping.

They're still riding a little lower than I thought they would, though in reviewing the photoshoot in the magazine, it does look like you can see the model's bellybutton. Sometimes Burda will tell you in the pattern instructions where the waist will end up; sits 3 cm above waist, and so on. This pattern was silent on that issue.

The magazine shows them in two lengths, Bermudas or Short-shorts. As a senior citizen, short shorts are not in my repertoire. And as a short person, neither are Bermudas. So I aimed for a length someplace in-between.

Rear view. Looks like I could use a flat butt adjustment, huh?

I used a Kaufman cotton with a bit of texture to it. Maybe it's a cotton jacquard? It's a dark brown with tiny little raised diamonds that are a more golden color. I had lusted after it for months and finally cracked and bought the last 2 yards at a recent Hart's flash sale.

All in all, I think these shorts are edging close to a fail. I wish the waist were a little higher, and I wish the pleats draped a little more. Most of this (if not all of it) is my fault. As far as I used it, the pattern was nice. I do still like the pleats, even though they're a little "Roman gladiator" in this weight fabric. The shorts are comfy as all get out, and the width at the hem means they're cool and breezy to wear.

I think I'll end up enjoying them when our real hot weather hits. Would I make them again? Maybe. Though I have my eye on another shorts pattern from the July Burdastyle.

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

Rectangle Tee

Even Burdastyle lovers will complain when they try to pass off a couple of rectangles seamed together as a pattern. I'm a hard core Burdastyle fan, but I've got to admit that BS 06-2016-#101 (Oversized Sleeve Shirt) looks like you could draw it up yourself with a straightedge in 5 minutes. But, gosh darn it, when you look at them, these are really nicely drafted rectangles!

BS 06-2016-#101

See how there's just a bit of curve at the sides, right by the arm pit? And again across the bust at the front?

Somehow that gives this top just enough shape to escape the gravitational pull of Planet Boxy.

Yet it's still a super-easy sew. Four pieces, finish the neckline and you're done.

Rear view

I used a hunk of black knit that had been in stash for several years. It feels like a cotton/poly mix and it has a texture kind of like Izod polo shirts; you know, with little holes in it and enough weight to kind of hold its shape. Not much stretch either, but since one of the fabrics Burdastyle recommends for this pattern is sweat shirting, I figured I could get away with it.

Side-ish view

I want to try this top again with a drapier fabric. Burda shows it in stripes, with the stripes on the sleeves running horizontally and the stripes on the body running vertically. I have a piece of jersey with teal and white stripes and I'm determined to to get this top out of it.  I think I'll have to shorten the sleeves quite a bit to make it work; those cut-on sleeves use up more fabric than you might suppose.

I wore my new top with a knit pencil skirt (from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual) to my friend Lisa's birthday/retirement party and felt just a bit gussied up but still comfortable enough to eat massive quantities of chips and dip.

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

V-Neck Button Blouse, Take Two

Hey hey, another finished object! I must be on a roll.

This is version #2 of Burdastyle June, 2011 blouse #104, last seen in June, 2015.

This time I used a cotton (probably intended for quilting) that I bought at Back Porch Fabrics in Pacific Grove. 

The Man and I had taken a day trip to Carmel to exchange a raincoat I'd bought for Zoe, our Great Pyrenees. I'd gotten her a Double XL, thinking that would surely be large enough. Turned out she needs a Triple XL. What can I say? She's a big girl.

Side view

While in Carmel, we stopped for lunch at the Doris Day hotel (a.k.a. the Cypress Inn), which must be the most dog-friendly hotel on the planet. Zoe got to sit with us in the cafe while we shared a chicken Caesar salad. 

On the way home, The Man offered to take me by a fabric store, just for a look-see. Couldn't help myself. I got two pieces of cotton; the one above was on the sale table. There was just over a yard left. I decided I liked the colors, and surely I could think of something to do with 42 inches of cotton.

Back view

Turned out it was just enough to cut out this top, though I had to shorten the sleeves to make it work. 

This is one of those patterns that I kind of like for a fabric with a large print. There aren't any darts, so I didn't have to worry about what kind of havoc they might wreak on my enormous polka dots. Instead, there's a forward shoulder seam with a tuck and a bit of gathering. 

The neckline is nice and clean, with no collar to present pattern-matching challenges. I shortened the sleeves mainly by leaving off the bottom bands, so I didn't even have to worry about polka-dot placement there. 

The cotton isn't the drapiest, but I can report that the top is cool and easy to wear. Even if it does make me look a bit like Mrs. Bozo. I love polka dots in theory, but once I'm wearing them I can't stop the clown images.

Bonus photo of Zoe in her new raincoat (size Triple XL)

My original pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

Burdastyle Fitted Blouse

I've been lagging on the sewing front recently. Possibly because I tidied away all my sewing gear for the holidays and I haven't had the energy to haul it all out again. Instead, I've been going through a bout of knitting startitis. Rather than working on the 8 or so UFOs that are patiently waiting for me in the knitting closet, I've cast on a Multnomah, a Featherweight Cardigan and a Honey Cowl. I should know better.

But, my friend Jessica and I are off to a weekend sewing class at the end of the month. That should get me back in gear. We'll be hanging at the Sonora School of Sewing and Apparel Construction in Sonora, CA. I'm picking my projects now!

Anyway, here's my first garment for the new year. It's blouse #104 from the May, 2012 issue of Burdastyle. This must be my favorite issue; I've made four of the patterns, some more than once. These pants are from this issue too - trousers #122 (blogged here).

05-2012-104, front view

Back view

This is a fitted blouse, with darts front and back and a center back seam. I didn't fiddle with the shaping for this first version, but you could pretty much go to town if you wanted to.

Line drawing from Burdastyle

The sleeves are shown rolled up in the magazine fashion shoot, and I failed to notice the fine print saying that they're supposed to be 3/4 length. I must have T. Rex arms, because on me they're more like bracelet length. Next time I'll add an inch or two. I'm also supposed to have made a hidden button band, but I couldn't figure out how the heck they wanted me to put that together. Luckily I had some matching buttons so no harm, no foul.

Here's a wrinkly shot with the shirt un-tucked so you an see how long it is. I think I actually like it this length. Since I'm a shortie, it's almost like a tunic on me. I could imagine wearing it like this with some skinny jeans (note to self; must make some skinny jeans).

I used a cotton print from the stash that I got while visiting my son and his girlfriend in L.A. They very sweetly spent a morning hunting fabric stores with me.

I think this could be my go-to fitted blouse pattern. I've been watching Peggy Sagers videos on Youtube. She has one on collars that has me all fired up to try hacking some shirt patterns. Between this pattern and the Archer, my shirt needs may be covered!

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

70's Pants Redux

Ever since I made my Burdastyle 70's pants back in 2014, I've been kind of wanting a pair in denim.

Now they are mine!

70's Pants, #109 from the June, 2012 Burdastyle

I really like the forward seams on these pants, along with the inseam pockets. Once again, I omitted the back pockets and moved the zipper to the center back. I've done enough fly fronts by now that they don't scare me the way they used to, but I kind of like the cleaner lines.

I used some fairly lightweight denim I got at Hart's. I bought two yards, thinking it would surely be enough, but I had to resort to creative pattern placement to squeeze out those super-wide legs.

Side view

Now that I'm fully retired I find I take a more relaxed approach to my various projects. If I get tired or hungry or frustrated or bored, I step back and do something else for a while. You might think this would result in fewer "oh sugar" moments, but instead I've had to wrestle with a factor that I learned about in a project management class decades ago: ramp-up time. When you have to set aside a project before it's completed, ramp up is the time required to step through your process and remember where the heck you were and what the heck you were doing when you put that project down. Skimping on ramp up time is always a mistake. Trust me.

With these pants, for example, I put the pieces aside to make dinner just after finishing the side seams. When I picked them up again, I got so involved in installing the zip before stitching the inner leg seams (brilliant me!) that I forgot to finish the pockets until after everything else was constructed. Doh! Ramp up time failure.

Rear view - I think some of the wrinkles are because  my hands are in my pockets

I hemmed these pretty long; long enough that I have a huge pair of clogs on underneath and they're totally invisible. In my experience, denim keeps shrinking a bit every time you wash it. If I don't hem my denim pants on the long side at the get go, they're too short in a month or so.

My friend Gillian thought this pattern would look nifty made up as a skirt. I can't stop thinking about that, so I'm afraid I'm going to give it a try one day soon.

If you're tempted by the pattern, you can download it from the Burdastyle website here.

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

November Burda Challenge - Birthday Dress!

My November Burda Challenge is completed. And before the end of the month too! I scored the current issue of the magazine at Stone Mountain and Daughter in Berkeley while on a birthday junket with my friend, Lisa. This is Sheath Dress #114.

According to Burdastyle, "The fitted dress follows the figure due to the perfectly placed darts diagonally toward the breastline as well as along the length to envelope the silhouette - especially accented by using fabric with a stretch. The closure zipper is tucked into the left side seam. A zipper at the shoulder seam allows the cut-on collar to lay beautifully."

Line drawing from Burdastyle

The darts are what we used to call "french darts," back when I was a youngster. I always thought they sounded a little risqué; just the kind of darts that would envelope the silhouette. Sadly, the finished dress is a bit too loose to qualify as an envelope. I took the side seams in an inch at the bust and the fit is still what I'd call "comfy."

I'm always a little nervous about installing zippers, even though they usually don't go bad on me. It felt even more dangerous in a knit. So why double my stress by installing two?  I decided to use just one zip and to move it to the center back seam. As it turned out, it went in easy peasy lemon squeezy. No rippling at all.

I used a teal blue ponte that I'd bought at Stone Mountain & Daughter some years ago. Still stash busting those knits!

Back view - there's some nice shaping going on with that center back seam

While this isn't my favorite of the Burda dresses I've sewn, I like it pretty well. The fabric and the long sleeves make it nice and cozy for chill winter evenings, and the color makes me feel festive.

I wore it with boots and a velvet scarf to the theater and dinner last night and it felt like just the ticket.  The Man treated me to Riverdance and a steak with fried shallots for my birthday. He's a doll!

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

A Stash Busting Coat

The September theme for the Stashbusting Sewalong was Outerwear/Seasonal Change. I actually started this coat more or less on schedule. Finishing was another story. Partly I blame the weather. We had an unusually long and hot fall. The kind of fall where I spent much of my day flopped on the couch in front of the fan, sapped of the will to live.

Burdastyle January, 2012, jacket #107

Partly the fault lay with my sewing skills. My friend, Lucy, recommended this pattern as a good prospect for my first coat. She made one herself, which is utterly adorable. Lucy made her version out of a boucle fabric, and, wouldn't you know it, I had a boucle-ish fabric in stash that would be just enough to cut this bad boy out. Well, it's not really boucle. It's more like cream colored fuzzy worms squiggling on top of a black mesh that frays madly. It looks nicer than that sounds though.

back view with seam

I really like the style of the pattern; it's shaped to the figure at the side and center back seams. It has a two piece sleeve for a nice fit at shoulder and arm, and it's lined.

That two piece sleeve was a first for me. I learned:

1. mark your notches carefully, because the sleeve seams do not match up with the side seams, and
2. it's really hard to mark your notches carefully on this fabric

I put a sleeve in wrong twice, once on the lining and once on the actual coat. I was worried I wouldn't be able to pick out the stitches on my coat fabric without making a huge mess, but it worked out OK.

Lime green lining

The lining was another challenge. This is the second time I've lined a garment. I'm generally what I like to think of as a thrifty sewist. If you line a garment, that means you're making it twice, meaning you have to shell out for twice the material. There was just no way to pretty up the seams on the innards with this fabric though, and I just happened to have some lime green cotton sateen sitting in stash that looked like it would do the trick (thanks, Jessica!). 

I trawled the internet to find something to supplement Burda's terse instructions on bagging the lining and ended up with a Threads tutorial that helped immensely. It was still a bit of a struggle but everything worked out in the end. I just hope my finish is neater on my next go.

Burdastyle wanted me to add big patch pockets and a ruffle at the neckline.

Line drawing from Burda site - you can buy the pattern there if you want

 Cute, right? I made up the pockets, but they just didn't look right when I pinned them on for placement, so I left them off. Even though I know I'll miss them.

Besides being kind of bulky and a pain to handle, my fabric had a definite wrong side, so I couldn't get the ruffle thing to happen either. I've decided I kind of like the clean look of the plain neckline though.

Plus, I'm a knitter with an extensive collection of scarves and cowls, so I can fluff up the neckline easy as pie.

In short, Lucy steered me straight. This is a great pattern and I highly recommend it for a first coat. I have some blue wool in stash that I think I'll earmark for the jacket-length version of this baby. Definitely with pockets next time.

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.