Two More for Knits Month

Knits Momth is just about over on the Stashbusting Sewalong. It's been a fun ride!

I churned out a couple more items in my final days:

These shorts are from the June, 2014 issue of Burdastyle. They're shorts #116a, but made at the length of #118. According to Burdastyle, "These jersey shorts with elastic at the waist ... and practical side pockets, are everything that Pattence needs at the shoreline to pair with her bikini." No bikini for me, though. I was aiming for some loose, comfortable shorts to wear while I'm mucking around in the garden.

I made my usual Burdastyle size 38 at the waist, grading to a 36 at the hip.

They certainly are loose and comfy, plus there are nice big pockets to hold a trowel or a packet or two of seeds. Flattering, maybe not so much. I knew they were meant to have plenty of ease, but somehow they looked trimmer on the model in the magazine. Maybe because she's a flat-stomached 20 year old in a bikini?

They were easy to sew up, even though I did initially put both back pieces in upside down. So glad I noticed before I trimmed and finished the seams! And I was glad that I was using a regular straight stitch instead of the stretch stitch. Made that unpicking so much easier.

My pattern review is on SewingPatternReview.com here.

Photo bombing Zoe

I also made up a quick version of Burdastyle 04-2015-103 (Top with Shoulder Straps). I couldn't resist the squared off arm scythe and the pleats at the shoulders.

Can you see the arm scythe?

The pattern is intended for a woven, but I had a piece of this bright chartreuse jersey that looked just big enough, so I gave it a shot.

Burda wanted you to apply bias binding at the neck and arm scythe and then turn it inside and stitch down. Since I was using a knit, I tried to handle it more like the neckband on a tee shirt. It worked out OK in the end, and if I make this again in a knit I'll know how to manage it more gracefully.

Back view

I would like to try the pattern in a silky woven sometime. It's a nice, simple style and it ends up being pretty easy and breezy to wear. Plus, it doesn't use much fabric, so it's a nice little stashbuster. Next time I'd add a bit to the length and I might try fiddling with the princess-esque side seams to give the top a little more shape.

My pattern review is on SewingPatternReview.com here.

This brings my knit stashbusting efforts to 2 Renfrew tees, 1 Santa Monica tee, 1 Gertie knit pencil skirt, 1 Burdastyle tee and one pair of Burdastyle shorts. I was hoping to slide in some undies, but my Beginning Underwear Sewing class at Hart's was cancelled (cue sad trombone). I was looking for some expert tips on applying lingerie elastics, but I'll have to soldier on alone. Luckily, there was a nice little set of instructions on the Colette blog this morning!

You Guessed It, Another Renfrew

Somehow I just can't quit this pattern.

Neckband is a little hoiked up because of the "hands on hips" pose

I wouldn't even post it except:

1) The last of my 3 yard Tilton booth bundle is now out of stash

Boy is the color different when photographed inside!

 2) Instead of zig-zagging the neckband to keep it in place, I used one of the decorative stitches on my Babylock. It's kind of like the machine equivalent of the feather stitch. It's just as stretchy as a zig-zag, and I think I like it!

Neckband is laying a little nicer in this photo

3) While this is my 10th Renfrew (or so), it is only my second V-neck.

Yes, Another Renfrew

Another length of stashed knit has moved to a higher plane:

Another Renfrew, V-neck edition

The Renfrew top, from Sewaholic, is truly the pattern that keeps on giving. This is probably the 10th Renfrew I've made, but! This is my first Renfrew with a V-neck!

I've made a passel of scoop-neck Renfrews and at least 4 cowl-neck Renfrews. Those cowl-necks. Oh, so cozy. Like wearing a top with a built in scarf.

I don't know why it's taken me so long to get around to the V-neck. Maybe I was worried about how to get the ends of the neckband to meet neatly in the front? Turns out there were no neckband issues at all. Tasia's directions are super clear and everything came together well on my first attempt.

I used one of the bits of knit that I got at the Tilton booth in Puyallup. It's a gray and green stipe, very soft and drapey. I had one yard, which was just enough to squeeze out this tee.

I got these three lengths as a three-yard bundle, with the idea of trying some bold color blocking. Turns out I'm not that bold yet. Maybe next time....

side view

But I was sassy enough to cut the cuffs witth the stripes going a different direction than the body.

Opposing cuffs

So, now I've tried all three of the neckline variations on one of my favorite patterns. And I'm glad I did. I see a few more V-neck versions in my near future.

Maybe one of these days I'll try one of the other two sleeve lengths!

Stashbusting Challenge 2015

Announcing the June theme for the 2015 Stashbusting Sewalong:

Knits!

Click here to read all about the Sewalong

Yes, June is all about knits. You know you love them. Even if you don't sew with them very often (or perhaps at all?), I bet you wear them all the time. Tee shirts, yoga pants, underwear - nothing beats a knit when you want that second-skin comfort. And when that hot, summer weather hits, a knit dress or top in a nice, natural fiber is just what the doctor ordered.

The knit stash - smaller than it used to be!

Why did I volunteer to be the host for knits month? I can tell you that it's not because I am a skillful or experienced knit seamstress - I'm still a newcomer.  What I am, though, is an enthusiastic and accomplished stasher of knits. Knits were probably about 75% of my stash when I began the Stashbusting Sewalong in January. I've been diligently chipping away at the knit shelves over the past 5 months, so I'd say the proportions are now more like 50-50.

Oh, what the heck. I'll just come right out and admit it; I've bought some knits over the past few months too. I just can't say "no" to a good knit, especially if it's a great color or print.

Got these at the Tilton booth in Puyallup. The devil made me do it.

If you're comfortable working with knits, jump on the bandwagon and dive into your knit stash! You'll be glad you did. Especially when you throw on that new tee or maxi skirt and head on out to the beach. Or, if you're a Southern Hemisphere sewist, when you cuddle into that soft, warm cowl-neck Renfrew...

If you are a bit of a knit newby, here are  couple of knit myth busters that might encourage you to give sewing with these fabulous fabrics a try:

Don't you need a serger to sew with knits? No, you do not! I don't have a serger and I can sew up most any garment I want, right on my Babylock Craftmaster. My seams might not look quite so pretty on the inside, but knits mostly don't fray. Practically speaking, you don't need to finish those seams at all. And as far as hems, I often don't hem my knits at all. Remember, those edges don't fray, and no hem means less bulk if you're going to tuck in that top.  If you do want a hem, your regular sewing machine can handle the job just fine, especially if you throw in some stabilizing hem tape.

But you do need a special stretch stitch, right? Again, no! My friend Martha has recently been sucked into sewing. She's been turning out super cute tee shirts on her grandmother's Singer Featherweight.

I recently took the Craftsy class on the Ultimate Tee, taught by the Tilton sisters. I learned that, unless you're sewing something with negative ease (like a swimsuit), you can just go ahead and use your straight stitch. My machine does have a stretch stitch (a.k.a. lightening bolt stitch) but I rarely use it these days. The straight stitch is quicker, uses less thread and is much easier to pick out (not that I ever need to do that).

So, toss that stash and pull out your bits of knits! And remember to share the inspiration on facebook and flicker!

Experiments in Undergarments

I’ve been wanting to try making my own undies for a while now, but somehow I hadn’t gotten around to it. Then, just when I needed a kick in the pants (ha ha), along came the Stashbusting Sewalong’s Lingerie theme.

My old standby undies are the High Leg Brief by Victoria’s Secret. Back in the day, that style used to come up to my waist – or pretty close, anyway. Now that a lower rise is so popular in the RTW world, Victoria’s waistband has been migrating downwards. I find that a line of elastic across my high hip cuts right into my chub. VPL for sure.

Now that I have a few me-made knit skirts and trousers that I like to wear, I’m all about the smooth silhouette. 

In fact, my goal is to avoid elastic altogether. On top of disliking the chub-compression properties of elastic, my frugality gene came into play. I like the idea of making undies out of scraps and nothing but scraps. How sweet would it be if I could come up with a plan that didn’t involve purchasing any special elastics or findings?

One of my favorite sewing ladies (who, sadly, hasn’t been posting recently) is Loran of Loran’s World. She wrote a great post about sewing lingerie and active wear using self-fabric bands rather than elastic. She used to sew dance wear this way, and I figure if it works for a dancer, it’s going to stay put just fine for me. 

Burdastyle 01/2012, #127

I hauled out the high-waisted panty pattern from the January, 2012 issue of Burdastyle. I remember thinking the pattern was pretty cute when I first got this issue, but I was put off by the zipper called for in the instructions. Zippers in undies just seems like too much . . . something. But if I made the undies out of a stretchy knit I could probably omit that puppy, just like I’d omit the zipper from a knit dress.

And bingo!

I test-drove the undies yesterday and they felt pretty good. Meaning that I didn’t notice them at all. The knit bands that substituted for elastic did their job, though I think the cut of these undies helps minimize any creep factor.

Plus I think they look pretty cute. I’m too dignified to post a photo. Imagine me modeling these undies, but looking more like Betty Grable than I actually do.

For this trial pair I used some scraps of cotton jersey left over from making tee shirts for The Man. Fabric constraints inspired me to make my first attempt at color blocking. I kind of like it! Maybe I can flex my color-blocking muscles with underwear and then move on to outerwear.

I initially cut the size 36, as suggested by my measurements. The pattern is designed for a stretch woven, so I thought I wouldn’t downsize immediately. I ended up retracing the pattern in the smallest size. I think I’ll try to size it down a bit more next time, just because I’m used to the feeling of a snugger fit for underwear.

I like this style enough that I to make up several more pairs. I may just go a bit wild with the fabric combos. I have some black lace that would be fun for those side panels.

Have a hankering to try some lingerie sewing yourself? Obsessive Creativeness has a plethora of tutorial and free pattern links here!

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

Oldest Stashed Fabric, Busted!

This is my entry in the Oldest Fabric category for the February Stashbusting Challenge.  I toyed with entering it under the Ugliest Fabric category, but I have to admit, it's been growing on me.

I'm not 100% sure which is the absolute oldest piece in my stash. I recently used one of the true ancients for this jacket. That piece had been folded up in my closet for so long that it had begun to fray along one of the creases. From this I learned that you can't keep stash forever.

This fabric is definitely up in the senior cohort though. I bought it probably 5 or so years ago at Findings in Carmel. Gosh, I still tear up when I remember going to their closing sale.

In the early days of my sewing renaissance I would find myself attracted to a fabric because of the color, or because of an interesting texture. With reckless abandon, I'd call out to the fabric lady to cut me two yards; no, wait, make that three! I'd buy like a drunken sailor on shore leave. Especially when fabric shopping with my friend Jessica.

Then I'd get the plunder home and realize that, while I did like the fabric as an object, I had no idea what to do with it. Like, for example, this hunk of green sweater-y knit with tweedy flecks all over it. So it sat in the lower levels of the stash for year after year. Every so often, I'd pull it out and heft it, then slide it back in the closet. No inspiration.

Then I discovered McCall's 6844. I had no idea that you could sew a cardigan! I though you had to start with yarn and spend 3 years knitting the darn thing, only to find that it made you look like Mr. Rogers.

In contrast, this cardigan took me about 4 hours from start to finish.

McCall's 6844 was a Sewing Pattern Review pattern of the year in 2013. With good reason too. It's easy to put together and includes a couple of cute variations. I made View A, the shorter version without the peplum.

I would have cut a medium if I followed the measurements on the pattern envelope. Because I'd checked out the reviews on Pattern Review, I cut a small. Good move. Otherwise I made it up exactly as instructed, including using interfacing on the collar. I'm glad I did - it seemed odd for a knit cardigan, but it gives the collar a bit of structure, which is nice.

You know, I like it. It's light but warm, it fits pretty well and I like the shawl collar. I can see myself making a few more of these. In fact, I have another ancient piece of knit fabric that may finally be seeing the sun as the longer, peplum-less version.

Stashbusting and Fasting in 2015

As you can see from my sidebar, I've signed up for both the Stashbusting Sewalong and the RTW Fast in 2015. Here's my formal hat-in-the-ring pledge:

 "I, NancyD, commit to using 15 pieces of stash fabric in 2015. Further, I pledge to refrain from purchasing RTW in 2015 (excepting socks and underwear, but I'll try to make that too).

Made from some dotty cotton I got 4 years ago in Shelton, WA

As proof of my good intentions, here's my first stashusting project, a Maria Denmark Edith blouse.

I've done some thinking about stash as I considered jumping into the pool this year. There's no doubt I have stash that needs dealing with, but I believe that stash can be a good thing.

When you're a sewist, especially a sewist with a busy life, you need to have your tools and materials ready and waiting when you manage to carve out that hour or two to indulge your passion. I love having a selection of pre-washed fabrics, multiple colors of thread, elastics, zippers and buttons all set when inspiration strikes. 

Now, you can't go hog wild with stash, or you end up with fabric leaking out of all your closets and drawers and you can't find those two yards of turquoise ITY knit when you need them. I'm close to that point, but quantity isn't really my problem.

For me, it's a question of balancing the stash. 

I probably have three times as many knits as I do wovens. When I first took up sewing again 10 years ago, good knits were rare on the ground. I developed a habit of buying a couple yards whenever I saw a knit I liked. The result is, I have a TON of knits. Part of my strategy for 2015 will be to find a variety of patterns so that I don't end up with 20 versions of the same tee (though I'll always love a good Renfrew).

My other problem involves those scary fabrics acquired earlier in my sewing cycle. Some of them are scary-good, like my pretty blue wool, earmarked for a jacket. Some of them are scary-bad, like my chiffon-y bits bought at cut-rate fabric emporiums. My strategy here will be to just hunker down and use them. What's the worst that can happen? As The Man points out, they aren't doing me any good wadded up in the fabric closet.

I won't pledge not to buy fabric, because I'm participating in Goodbye Valentino's RTW Fast again this year. I need to retire some of my trousers, which means sewing replacements, which means buying some fabric, on account of I don't have any pants-worthy fabrics in stash.

I had a great time with the fast in 2014. I totally went the whole year without buying any ready to wear clothing. Except one vintage beaded jacket  - it fit me and it was $30 bucks. How could I say no? Not buying RTW meant that if I needed (or, OK, wanted) some wardrobe item, I had to figure out how to make it myself. I sewed some things I wouldn't have thought I'd be able to manage, including running gear (!!) and a bra (!!! - the Watson, still to be blogged).

Plus, I'm going to the Sewing and Stitchery Expo in Puyallup, WA in February. How can I not allow for the possibility that I'll buy a yard or two of some delicious fabric on that trip? My friend, Jessica, and I are taking the train so we can bring an extra suitcase. Just in case.