Linden Sweatshirt

I welcomed in 2020 with a sinus infection and bronchitis. I spent the first two weeks of January slumped on the couch, streaming schlocky TV and maybe knitting a row or two. Yesterday was really the first day I felt frisky enough to haul out my machine to try a little sewing. I needed a project that was gentle, straightforward and cozy.

The day before I had accompanied my friend Jessica to Hart's. I was supposed to be filling an advisory role, but I ended up buying the pattern for the Linden Sweatshirt along with 2 yards of a Telio sweater knit in a color you might call "grape." The perfect low-key sew to get me back in the saddle.

I had been dithering for a little while about buying this pattern. I hoped it might share the space in my wardrobe which is occupied by the Sewaholic Renfrew. I love my Renfrews and I wear them often, but 've been wanting something not quite so curve-hugging. It seems like styles have gotten a little looser over the past 10 years, and my curves have gotten a little looser right along with them.

At $16, the pattern seems a little pricy for what it is and I thought surely I had something almost identical in my years of Burda magazines. Then I flipped through my pattern stash and it looked like I really didn't, so I pulled the trigger.

I made the longer view, which has full-length sleeves, cuffs and a hem band.

The Linden is described as having a "relaxed" fit. As my bust is 35 inches, the size chart would put me in a size 6. The pattern envelope includes the finished garment measurements (thanks, Grainline!), and the size 6 measures 41.5 inches at the bust. That was a bit more relaxed than I was after, so I sized down to a 4. That still gives me a finished bust of 40.5 inches, which is plenty of ease for me.

I wanted my garment to fit more like a slouchy sweater than a sweatshirt, so I lengthened the neckband, the hem band and the cuffs. I didn't want them to pull in like your classic sweatshirt would. Plus, I was using self-fabric for my bands and not that super-stretchy ribbed jersey they make for sweatshirts.

I also shortened the sleeves by about 3 inches. Once I added the two inch cuffs the sleeve length is just about perfect.

It took me three times longer to figure out my sizing tweaks than it did to cut and sew my sweatshirt. I'll be able to knock the next one out in an hour, easy.

Overall, I like it! I can see myself using this pattern again and again, just like my old friend the Renfrew. If I go down one more size, the short-sleeve version will be a handy staple for summer tees. My verdict: the Linden was $16 well spent.

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

Scout Tee

The Grainline Party continues at my house. Next out is the Scout Tee. Designed for woven fabrics, the pattern describes the top as fitted at the shoulders, falling into a loose shape below the bust.

I'd say that's just how my version turned out.

I wear a lot of tee shirts. As a retiree living in easy, breezy Santa Cruz my style is way over to the casual side of the fashion spectrum. Mostly I wear knit tees, but it's nice to have a few woven options in the closet. Sometimes I want to avoid the cling factor that's usually part of a knit top, and when the weather is hot something loose on top is very nice indeed. Plus there are so many cute woven prints to play with.

I've used McCalls 8050 for a woven tee-style top, and Gertie's Portrait Blouse is another option to consider. Both have cut on sleeves though, and I was interested in trying something with set in sleeves.

McCall's 8050 - probably the oldest me-made item in my wardrobe

Gertie's Portrait Blouse - love that neckline

For this Scout I used a burn-out fabric that's probably some kind of cotton blend. I found it at Crossroads Fabrics in Watsonville. I have a nice piece left over, but I'm not too sure what to do with it. It was a bit of a pain to sew because my needle thunked every time I went from burn-out to solid and back again. I'll see how it holds up in wearing.

Rear view

 I made a size 6, which I think is about right for me. The shoulders look like I wouldn't want to go down a size, right? Speaking of shoulders, I put the sleeves in flat and tried to be as careful as I could, but I still got a bit of puckering. I have another Scout in the pipeline and I think I'll try to reduce a bit of the ease in the sleeve head for that one. I'm kind of excited to see if I can figure out how to do that. I've been pointed to a nice tutorial at Green Apples. Too bad the Stitchy Witch doesn't blog anymore. Hers was one of the first sewing blogs I stumbled over and I picked up a lot of great tips from her.

Side view

Here's a side view so you can see that the tee does, indeed, fall into a loose shape below the bust. I think you'd want to use a pretty light, drapey fabric so the top can move with you a bit. It feels very nice and floaty while wearing; just right for a hot summer day.

Tucked in view

When you want to look a little more button-down, it's also cute tucked in to a skirt or a pair of high-waisted trousers.

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

Morris Blazer

Once I finished my plaid flannel Archer I caught a bit of Grainline fever. Jessica and I stopped at Stonemountain in Berkeley on our way back from Sonora and they had a bunch of Morris blazers made up that were cute as all get out. We both decided we had to jump on the train to Morris Town. My friend Martha is working on one too. There must be something in the air.

The pattern recommends fabric with some stretch, either a stretch woven or a stable knit. I used a fairly light weight ponte that I got at Britex years ago. At the time it was the most expensive fabric I'd ever bought, and it's still pretty much at the top of the heap, cost-wise. I thought about using it for a Renfrew, but turns out it's a nice weight for a light jacket. And I could fit the Morris onto my yardage - shazaam!

I made a size 6 for my 35ish inch bust. There isn't much ease in the pattern. You do want some stretch so you can move your arms comfortably.

I look a little Incredible Hulk-ish here

The pattern was easy to follow and everything fit together very nicely. It's a Best Pattern of 2015 on PatternReview.com, so you know it has to be solid. My only moment of confusion related to attaching the bottom hem facing. Luckily, there is a tutorial for this pattern on the Grainline site that clears everything up.

Hem a bit flyaway in the back

If I'm going to be picky, there are two things that bug me a bit about the blazer.

1. The front facings don't seem to lay super smooth. Might be due to my somewhat droopy fabric, though I've seen others have this issue over on PatternReview
2. The back flares out a bit more than I like at the hem. Again, my fabric may be partly to blame. Next time I may take the back in along the center seam towards the hem. Note to self: Self, remember to adjust the hem facing if you do!

When I first saw these pictures I was a little tweaked about these two issues. Now that I've worn the blazer a few times my enjoyment of the shape and the comfort is enough to outweigh a quibble or two.

There's this cream and black knit at Hart's. I can't get the idea of a Morris in that knit, but with black lapels out of my mind.

My pattern review is on PatternReview.com here.

Next up, the Grainline scout tee.